New England Style Fish Soup

Sunday Soup Series

New England style fish soup

Most of the time when I make a soup the process is the same. I rifle through the pantry or refrigerator looking for ingredients that can be thrown into a pot with some mirepoix and simmered for an hour or more until all the ingredients meld together producing a satisfying meal that can be enjoyed for days or even the whole week. These soups tend to get better the next day or after a few days. A whole lot of finesse is not required, just a little patients and occasional stirring. Todays soup is not one of those soups.

I’ve been formulating this one in my head for the last week. It requires multiple pots, planning and is not one I simmer on the stove for hours. It is best enjoyed right away and does not hold up very well the next day. I almost never make a soup like this in the restaurant as it doesn’t appreciate being held hot for hours. Watching carefully and timing each step precisely is required. I apologize in advance and promise to get back to another simple one pot soup next week. I was tempted to go in many different directions with the flavor profile on this one but opted to stick with a classic New England chowder seasoning It would also be amazing with a little Thai curry and coconut milk or some corn to boost the sweetness but I’ll leave that for the summer corn season.

I start by making a fish fumet. This is basically a fish stock using white fish such as cod, bass, halibut, flounder, sole or basically any flat white fish, with the addition of wine or a touch of lemon juice. One must clean out any blood lines, avoid the fins and never simmer for longer that 20-25 minutes. Cooking longer will result in a bitter overly fishy stock. You can get whole fish at some local grocery stores but I find that the larger asian markets tend to have the best selections.  Let's get started!!

As with most of my soups this recipe yields about a gallon but may vary depending on the size of fish you buy.

1 whole white fish, preferably at lease 2 pounds

Filet the fish, remove any pin bones. Medium dice the meat and set aside. I chop off the fins and tail. The head can be used but the gills should be removed.

bones from the fish

1 medium onion

3 ribs of celery

1 medium leek, mostly white parts, roots and dark green parts removed

2 sprigs fresh thyme

3 bay leaves

1 cup dry white wine

1 lemon, cut in half, squeezed

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorn

1 tablespoon kosher salt

3 quarts cold water

Place all ingredients in your favorite stock pot and slowly bring up to a simmer. Skim off any foam that rises to the top. Gently simmer for 20-25 minutes. Do not bring to a rapid boil. Remove from the heat. Let sit for 5 minutes and then strain the fumet, reserving only the liquid and discarding the rest. Set aside.

As it is currently freezing cold out and the middle of winter, I’ve chosen to give this soup a little body with a celery root puree. The flavor is pretty mild and won’t overpower the delicate fish flavors. You could also use some parsnip but be careful how much you use as the flavor is a bit stronger.

2 cups celery root, peeled & diced

In a small sauce pot boil the celery root in lightly salted water until very tender (about 25 min) Drain and transfer to a food processor. Puree until smooth. You may need to add a touch of milk to get it fully pureed. Set aside.

For the soup:

1 medium onion, diced small

4 ribs celery, sliced thin

1 medium leek, white parts only, sliced thin

1/4 cup shallots, sliced thin

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup pancetta, small diced

1/2 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped

3 quarts fish fumet

2 cups 1/2 & 1/2

3-4 bay leaves

3 cups Yukon gold potatoes, small dice (about the size of a dime)

2 cups celery root puree

2 dozen fresh black mussels

1 lb diced white fish

2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped

Kosher salt & white pepper to taste

Dash of tabasco & Worcestershire

I garnish with some parsley or chive oil and celery heart leaves and serve with some crusty bread or oyster crackers

In a thick bottomed pot start with the butter and pancetta. On low heat cook until that fat begins to render out of the pancetta (5-10 min) stirring frequently. Add the onion, celery, shallots and leek, continue cooking on low heat (Approx 15 min) It’s important that this is done slowly and you don’t caramelize the vegetables. Add the fresh thyme and crushed red chili flakes. Cook another 5 minutes. Add the fish fumet, bay leaves and potatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just fork tender (10-15 min). Add the half & half, celery root puree. Bring back up to a simmer and season with tabasco, Worcestershire and white pepper. Add the diced fish and mussels and simmer for just a couple minutes, until the mussels open. Turn off the heat and serve immediately.

*note: You could substitute clam juice if you don’t want to go through the process of cleaning a whole fish. Coconut milk would also be a good substitute for the half & half and butter if you want it dairy free